A Somber Day

Last night, we decided to change our plans a bit. Today's forecast was thunderstorms and rain and we were supposed to go to Berchtesgaden, a national park. It was important to Joe that we go this park and that we be able to enjoy it. So we decided to wait a day and go tomorrow. The problem with waiting is that Berchtesgaden is close to the Austrian border which is 2 1/2 hours east of Munich, so that would mean that getting back to Frankfurt would require an 8-9 hour train ride and we would not be able to stay very long in the park. So Joe and I will go to the park tomorrow and stay at another hotel in Munich and take the train back to Frankfurt on Sunday. Zach needs to be back home to take care of his dog, so he will leave for Frankfurt tomorrow and visit Berchtesgaden another time.

Once we made the decision to delay the trip to Berchtesgaden, we decided to visit Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial. The memorial is not far from Munich so we didn't feel a need to rush. We got to Dachau around 11:00 am and picked up an audioguide and proceeded through the iron gate into the camp. The site is large with a wide open space called Roll-Call Square. On one side of the square are the foundations of the 30 barracks in two rows lined with trees. The first two barracks have been reconstructed with exhibits inside. Each barrack was designed to hold 200 people, but by the end of the war, the Nazis were squeezing 2000 people into each of the barracks. There were several timelines that showed how conditions got worse over the years. It was horrific.

On the other side of the Roll-Call Square is a memorial sculpture and an extensive museum filled with many
exhibits. In addition to the barracks and museum, there are also a bunker where "criminals" were kept, the crematorium and several religious memorials. We visited all of these locations and spent about four hours reading, listening, and mourning the mistreatment and loss of so many lives.

After leaving Dachau, we took the train to Marienplatz to catch the last performance of the Glockenspiel in the New Town Hall. Then it was time for a traditional Bavarian meal at Hofbrauhaus. It is a restaurant brewery and beerhall with long tables and benches, an Oompah band, and a loud crowd of eaters and drinkers. Joe got roast pork with a potato dumpling and gravy. He also ordered a couple veal sausages to try. I had roast chicken and potato salad along with a bread basket of several types of bread. Zach ordered a vegan meal of a dumpling in a mushroom cream sauce. We all enjoyed our meal and this was the first place I was asked if I wanted to give a tip. My choices were 5% or 10%. Tipping is very unusual in Germany. They pay their wait staff a better living wage. On the other hand, waiters don't hover over your table and you have to get their attention to just pay the bill.

It was still light out when we finished our dinner, so Zach suggested we visit the English Garden. It is really a large park similar to Balboa Park with trails, streams, lots of trees, sports fields and restaurants. We even saw some people "surfing" on man made rapids. It was very interesting. We walked for a little while and then found our way back to the hotel via bus and train. Our time here in Munich has been full and tomorrow will another long day filled with beautiful scenery. I am sad that Zach won't be able to join us, but Joe and I should have a good time as long as we make our train connections!